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Author Topic: Buying Your First Bike? Read This First!  (Read 376 times)
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DoktorMandrake
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I horned the freaky snail, before overtaking it...


« on: January 04, 2012, 11:17:31 AM »

When I worked with bikes, there was a scenario that occured with alarming frequency. One that occurs occasionally on GBB. We'd become acquainted with a newbie biker, maybe on L-plates or in the process of stepping up to something bigger, or someone who had maybe been biking for a few years but was not that into the technical side of things. They'd pop down, chat, ask advice, be eager to learn, pick up bits and pieces here and there.

Then one day they'd appear with a 'new' bike and a big grin on their face. Unfortunately, they were all, without exception, lemons. It was hard to know what to do in that situation. You have to be cruel to be kind often, but slating something someone has just paid hard earned cash for or drawing someone's attention to the numerous failings of their chosen machine is never pleasant.

It always astounded me that people would go and buy a bike on their own when they had no knowledge of bikes to speak of. From speaking to these individuals, they basically handed over the cash and took the bike. This is a big no no. You should always check a bike over and know what to look for - it is your life and wallet on the line. If they had asked we would have been only too happy to advise them and guide them in the right direction. Sellers, unscrupulous ones, love an ignorant buyer. One who does not ask the right questions and buys with the heart, not the head.

Eventually, you develop a sixth sense, a sort of biking spidey sense that becomes invaluabe when buying bikes. Yet we've all been there. My first bike cost me a fortune. It was a shed, I was royally ripped off, and I learnt my lesson. With that in mind, the fact that on GBB occasionally members purchase what, being kind, could be described as perhaps not the best example of a given model they could have, and in the interests of making sure GBBers get a fair deal, pay not a penny more than what something is worth, save money in the long run and avail themselves of the wealth of knowledge older, more experienced members have accrued over the years, I propose a thread for newbie buyers dos/don't. One where those with the knowledge and experience can guide those who are still learning (incidentally I class myself in the latter catagory).

I remember BK started a thread about hints and tips that was fantastic. Everyone seemingly had something different and insightful to add. If there was something that you had already incorporated into your riding/knew, then next few posts were bound to contain at least one useful nugget that may save your life or that of your bike!

With that in mind, I'd like to start one here for people buying bikes. Feel free to add your own thoughts/experiences, and maybe if it is of any use it can be made sticky?

I will kick off...


*before you buy a bike, please, please, please, ask on here for people's opinions/experiences, what to look out for, what flaws a given model is prone to, what year was reputed to be the best, what technical idiosyncrasies the bike you desire displays and if there is perhaps a bike better suited to you and your needs.


*If you are going to view a bike and are unsure of what to look for, see if a GBBer near you can maybe come along to help you out. Never buy a bike alone if you are not technically minded/you do not know what you are looking for. Take someone with you.


« Last Edit: January 04, 2012, 11:24:02 AM by DoktorMandrake » Logged

P.B.
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2012, 11:35:56 AM »

Interesting idea DM, very generous too.

In my experience once someone has decided, they've decided and unless a wheel falls off on the forecourt they're taking the bike home. Perhaps we need to get stung to start thinking properly?
« Last Edit: January 04, 2012, 11:36:17 AM by photoboy » Logged

I might just live to regret this.
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2012, 11:43:15 AM »

when i first bought my bike i knew nothing, and only really gave it a cursory glance before parting cash. Remembered to ask for the tool kit, and did a HPI check, but that was it. Luckily my bike turned out ok (though my bike was only 4 years old, so less chance of things being wrong with it)

Now I'm a lot more thorough when looking for a bike. You can gain a lot of insight from the pictures, mods, and the description about how a bike has been treated. One example was a guy selling a 748 near me, looked like a bargain, but noticed it had a spare set of wheels for sale, and a big petrol can in one of the pics, so it was obviously a track day bike, which hadn't been mentioned in the description.
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mikiboy
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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2012, 12:59:05 PM »

With Ebay, PHONE the seller if you can't view.  TALK to them.  Not email.
You need to get a gut feeling.  I nearly bid on a bike for Maria that was too far to view.  The seller wouldn't talk to me.  Why?  Gave some excuse about phoniong at midnight!!!!!
The last one that was bought blind was a bargain.  it wasn't perfect but it is now.  It was a great buy.

Trackbikes.  I often buy them.  They tend to be better looked after than many road bikes.  Most sports bikes are designed to be track bikes so service history or proof of home servicing is a must.

Cosmetics dont really bother me.  Ok, if it needs panels replacing, then it does, but a few scratches or scuffs here and there are preferable on a bike with a dealer service history to a shiny bike which the owner knows nothing.

As DM has said, ask on here before you buy.  Don't buy blind unless you are prepared to walk or take a big hit.
Patience in these circumstances is often worth the wait as there's nothing worse than spending your hearts money on your dream bike for it to be broken and unable to afford to repair.

Things like 33bhp on a bike can make choosing a bike harder but there are legal ways round paying £300 for a couple of washers and a certificate.

Grey bikes can be a bargain, but ask 1st.  I have 4 atm but I only buy Honda's as I know I can get most parts readilly and cheaply.  Servicing can be a pain if you have problems, as I can vouch trying to get my RVF running properly every time
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DoktorMandrake
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2012, 01:46:04 PM »

Interesting idea DM, very generous too.

In my experience once someone has decided, they've decided and unless a wheel falls off on the forecourt they're taking the bike home. Perhaps we need to get stung to start thinking properly?


Experience is the best teacher, and some people can't be helped, but at the same time, for those who pause for a second before buying a shed or who want our help, making it available in whatever form is sumat I feel most people on here would support. If it saves a few people from making the same mistakes most of us have, then that is a good thing in my book. It is so easy to buy a lemon. And pushing a bike is never as much fun as riding laughing


Greg - aye, it's the attention to detail you learn and that often will save you. Good spot on the spare set of wheels and fuel can. I wouldn't necessarily be put off by the fact it was a trackbike, but more by the fact that the chap was trying to hide it. Obviously a trackbike is worth less, sometimes significantly less, and to stick all the road gubbins back on it and try to flog it off as a road bike is cheeky.


Miki - Good points. I particularly agree that patience is key. Finding the right bike, like anything in life, can sometimes involve hassle, expense and time. However you save in the long run. My first (proper) bike was bought the day after I took my test as I had to have a bike. It was down the road (and had been down the road many times) so location won out over common sense, knowledge and experience (neither of which I had back then).


*MOT - an MOT is not a guarantee that the bike is mechanically sound. However it is required. You want a long MOT on any bike. MOTs can often be costly, so getting at least 8 months to a year of biking in, theoretically, before you have to take it for an MOT is advisable. I would not buy a bike with less than 8 months MOT and ideally I always look for a full year's ticket.

Old MOTs can also give you an indication into the sort of life the bike's had. They record mileage, which helps to verify what you are reading on the clocks is accurate (although, like anything, there are ways to fiddle it), and they allow you to infer how the bike was used - few thousand miles between MOTs - chances are the bike has seen little rain and was ridden by a fair weather rider or possibly been on a track. 10k or more per year and the bike was used year round etc.


Owners - number of pervious owners. Bikes are like women. You wouldn't want a women that had been ridden by everyone and same goes for a bike laughing (on the flipside, you don 't want a virgin either - running in is no fun toothy grin) Seriously though, the more hands a bike has passed through the more likely it is to have been down the road, abused and almonded about with. Depending on the age of the bike, I like to have as few pervious owners as possible. There are some exceptions to this rule - 125s are used for a purpose and then sold on usually so they can often have been in the possession of multiple people. Often bikes are viewed toys by a lot of people. That means they often get bought and sold and can rack up owners quickly. One or two owners from new is preferable and in my exeperience means a bike is more likely to have been looked after.  


HPI - 83600 text any reg to that number, costs about £3, and it will tell you if the bike has been subject to a claim, number of owners, lost, stolen, changed colour and give you the last digits of engine and frame numbers - check these against those on the bike.

Receipts/paperwork with a bike - these act as sort of history. Often people will stick everything in there. For instance, I have viewed a few bikes and discovered that they have had new engines fitted when the paperwork for the engine or invoice for fitting has been in there, or had bikes where one side had had rearsets which tells me the bike has been down the road at some point. A bundle of receipts is sometimes worth going through. You can either use what you find to negotiate money off or walk away if there is something in there you did not like or that you believe the seller deliberately failed to declair.

Buy from people - I went to buy a car recently and the chap lied to me. His story kept changing. First it was his car and his mrs was insisting he sold it as he had too many, then it was his mate's car and various other fibs/inconsistencies. I would not have bought the car anyway, as it had an oil leak, but even if the car had been mint, I still would have walked. There is no reason to lie when selling a vehicle unless you have something to hide. Ask a lot of questions and get a feel for the owner.

Service history - it is not a cast iron guarantee that the bike is in tip top condition, but as a rule of thumb, a lemon usually comes without any or partial at best. Bikes require looking after, some people can do this at home themselves, and some don't bother at all. You can buy good bikes that have been well looked after that have little or no history, but having service history can help you to decide how well a bike has been looked after. It shows someone taken time and pride in their machine and even loved it - all good when buying a bike - as it shows they have kept up with the manufacturer's requirements and spent time and money on it. It goes without saying, I'd much rather buy a bike that was someone's pride and joy and one that they had lavished attention and money on, that get sumat someone has thrashed about or neglected. Having service history is not imperative if the bike has obviously been well maintained but it is still good to have and something to look out for when you first start buying bikes. Check through and look at when was doen and when.


V5 - no matter how good a deal, never buy a bike without one of these.

The engine and frame numbers are also printed on it. Check them off against the engine and frame numbers on the bike. If the frame number is dodgy or does not correspond then walk away. If the engine number fails to match, then it means the bike has had a new engine. I would still walk unless there was a receipt for the engine as it could be stolen, but often people will swap engines and not bother to inform the DVLA.


« Last Edit: January 04, 2012, 01:52:34 PM by DoktorMandrake » Logged

notoriusb.e.n
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2012, 01:58:48 PM »

Good topic. Placing a Vote for stickification.
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DoktorMandrake
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I horned the freaky snail, before overtaking it...


« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2012, 03:05:19 PM »

Nice one, Ben OK!

And keep the posts coming people. Any nuggets of wisdom shared would be appreciated.
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2012, 04:42:47 PM »

I can happly say that the advice i got from the guys on this forum was very valuable to me.In my search for my first bike.I was told the asking price for the divvy was to high £1000.so with that in mind i haggled the price down to £700.not a bad price at all with a mountain of paper work and fsh.
One thing i did learn any bike you take a liking to be it on e-bay or the classified.post a link here before you part with cash.The insight and experiance was the best thing i could of done.ANd it got me a good deal.

Looks arn't the most  important thing here buy with your head and not your heart.A tatty well  cared for bike is going to better than a pretty abused one...
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2012, 05:32:15 PM »

Consumables to check before buying.  Items on this list don't mean walk away, but they may be a haggling point:

Tyres - tread depth and rubber consistency (make sure they're not too hard).

Chain - Is it rusty, stiff or excessively loose (check at the back of the rear sprocket)?  Are the adjusters near the end of their movement 

Sprockets - Should not be hooked, broken or worn away.

Brake Pads - Check for wear (does mean laying on the floor!)

Brake Fluid - Look at the fluid in the reservoir window.  If it's not a deep brown then it will need changing.

Obviously, the relevance of these depends on the bike and how much they want for it.  On a £300 bike you can't expect it all to be right.  On a £4000 bike you can.  It basically comes down to how well you can haggle.   Also, if you're doing them yourself then they aren't necessarily that expensive.  However, work on the assumption that you will have to get them done at a garage.  Ie: don't let on that you know what you're doing.

Also related, but not a consumable, servicing.   Check the manual for the service schedule.  If the "big" service is due soon or just recently then ask if it's been done.  If not then this will be a significant expense that will affect the value.   
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