What's that tool and what does it do? Now With Index

[Welsh Al]

For reference and information, and because I can't find a complete list of tools anywhere that's not a catalogue, I wondered if we couldn't make a post of tools.

So I propose that all responses be informative.

1. A picture of the tool. A good size and good clarity so that you can clearly see what it is, what it does and how big it is.

2. A description of the tool, what it does and how it is used.

3. An approximate price, unless the tool is homemade, a la clutch-basket holder.

An index of entries would be handy.


Angle Grinder Scroll down a bit.
Bearing Puller
Bolt Rotation Gauge
Box Spanner Scroll down a bit.
Cable Oiler
Feeler Gauges
Hammer
Mole Grips
Multimeter Scroll down a bit.
Oil filter and a removal tool
Pipe Cutter
Screwdriver
Sockets
Spark Plug Sockets
Strap Wrench
Stilson Wrench
Stud Extractor
Thread Cleaner (female thread] Scroll down a bit.
Thread Insert Replacement kit Scroll down a bit.
Torque Wrench
Torque Wrench, Beam Type Scroll down a bit.
Vernier Gauge(digital)


Eccentric Bike Adjuster

[Welsh Al]

An oil filter and a removal tool.

The tool goes on the end of the filter, they have matching serrations for grip, and you use a spanner of the right size on the tool.

Alternatively you can use a chain-type extractor



Which is just like a socket. It goes around the filter and you use a ratchet to undo the filter. It can damage the filter.

Alternatively, you can just stick a screwdriver all the way through the filter, side to side, to get it off, but that's messy, and the more tools we have the happier we are. And it gives our OCD something else to spend hours cleaning.

[Welsh Al]

A Torque Wrench.

This one pictured is a ratchet type, which means you flick a switch to change the direction of the lock. Others just have a double sided head, so that you turn it round to go in the other direction.

Bolts should be tightened to a correct torque setting (the amount of energy that should be applied when tightening the bolt).

These wrenches have a turning sausage roll at the bottom end which allows you to set the maximum amount of energy. When you get to that point, the wrench disengages inside itself and no more force is transmitted to the bolt.

Measurements for bolts can be found in workshop manuals, although there are general limits for each size of bolt (the bigger the bolt, the higher the torque).

Torque settings are normally measured in Nm (Newton meters) for metric and Lb-in (Pound Inches) for Imperial measurements.

These tools aren't always used by home mechanics on basic tasks or routine maintenance, although they technically should be, but advanced tasks that involve the disassembly of suspension, chassis or engine components should always use the appropriate torque settings to each bolt.

[prydeannie]

Step One - Match the screwdriver to the screw head.
Step Two - Don't assume that all cross-head screws are for Phillips screwdrivers. A Phillips will slip out of a screw designed for a Pozidriv screwdriver, which has a slightly flatter tip.
Step Three - Drive hex-head screws with nut drivers.
Step Four - Do fine work, such as on carb and idle screws, with a set of jeweller's screwdrivers.
Step Five - Find screwdrivers with contoured handles that are at least 5 inches long and that fit the shank tightly. Handles without finger grooves are the most comfortable.
Step Six - Try an offset or a stubby screwdriver in close quarters where a normal screwdriver won't fit.
Step Seven - Get a ratcheting screwdriver or an electric screwdriver to prevent repetitive motion injuries.
Step Eight - Use a screwdriver that has the same blade tip width as the screw head and fits in the slot tightly.
Step Nine - Look for screwdrivers with black oxide tips, which improve control.
Step Ten - Use a screw holder or a magnetic screwdriver to start screws in awkward or hard-to-reach places.

Tips & Warnings
Store your screwdrivers in a rack or pouch that leaves the tips exposed; this way you can find the proper screwdriver quickly.
Keep in mind that rubber handles on screwdrivers are for comfort and grip. They aren't designed to protect the user from electrical shock. If you must work on live electrical equipment, be sure that your screwdriver has an insulated handle and a non-conducting shaft.

It's amazing what you can find on the internet when you should be working........

[madsporkmurderer]

Percussive maintenance can fix (almost) any problem

[Plewsy]

ahh! the divining rod for finding the expensive part close to the bit you where going to hit, and the saying "if in doubt give it a clout! The bigger the doubt the bigger the clout"

[qwakers]

mole grips, for rounding of the head of that bolt that you cant find a spanner to fit.

[Welsh Al]

http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/source/h/a/hammer/source.html

More than one type of Hammer...

http://www.hammermuseum.org/

More than one type of nut...


Sloper, that's one of the most gorgeous tools I've ever seen in my life, that torque wrench.



The Stilson wrench, also known as a Pipe Wrench because of Americans.
Bad for nuts, it's hard steel jaws are designed to cut into metal surfaces in order to hold them. The spring-loaded top jaw moves slightly backwards to allow for a secure purchase.
It doesn't get used much on bikes, as they need more accurate tools like sockets. It can come in handy for stress relief if you can't find a hammer, though

[Deej]

Pipe cutter. Not much cop for motorcycle related jobs; but the dogs for all manner of copper pipe cutting tasks and a joy to use in those confined spaces under the sink etc.

[chris_r]

Pipe cutter. Not much cop for motorcycle related jobs; but the dogs for all manner of copper pipe cutting tasks and a joy to use in those confined spaces under the sink etc.

Use to chop your handlebars down if you want a narrower profile; commonly done with mountain bikes.

[swylo]

This is probably one of the best bits of kit to have at "anyones"disposal !!

It is 100% reliable,........ strong,........ versatile,........ in fact it is probably the only bit of kit your ever going to need for just about "any" motorcycle repairs !

It is called (in the trade) a

P person

Y you

S should

K keep

O on your side !!!!!



Psyko havin fun takin my bike to pieces 

[robertcains]

I always thought that was a universal screwdriver

[Plewsy]

 A UNIVERSAL SCREW REMOVER

[Welsh Al]

Single Hex Sockets vs Double Hex sockets.

Hex refers to the fact that nuts are hexagonal, 6 sided. If the socket has 6 sides, it's single hex. If it has 12 sides, it's double hex.


These are long single hex sockets.


These are standard double hex sockets.

The idea is that the double-hex sockets get easier leverage because they have a starting point twice as often as single hex, so you can take the socket off the nut when you run out of room and start again twice as often.



Of course, double hex sockets have to be made out of harder metal, otherwise they split, because the outer wall of the socket is that much thinner. This makes them more expensive, and often (but not always) found only in expensive socket sets.

[Welsh Al]

Step One - Match the screwdriver to the screw head.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phillips_Screwdriver
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv

[Welsh Al]

Feeler gauges.

This is a spark plug tool.

The feeler gauges are useful for spark plug gaps, valve clearances and other jobs. They are quite easy to use. Finding the correct gap, or clearance, from the manual you pass the appropriate feeler through to ensure the gap is  neither too big nor too small.
The adjusting tool looks like it's got two notches cut out. You place this on the arm of the spark plug and pull it back or push it forward. Pliers are bad.
Screwdrivers are bad.
The electrode, which comes out of the plug's center, is particularly vulnerable to scratches and damage.
The ceramic coating around the electrode is incredibly vulnerable to cracking, and this leads to the spark grounding (running to the metal of the engine's head rather than the end of the spark plug).



Spark plug sockets.

These are not the same as standard sockets. They are designed to fit only spark plugs, and a 12mm one will not fit a 12mm nut.
Pictured are magnetic sockets, which should bring the plug out with them. If this fails, a short length of garden hose pipe can be used to go over the end. When pushed on, it will go over the end of the plug securely enough to turn a bit and pull out, but not enough to cross thread or damage the thread of the head.


A Plug Box-Spanner; turn it upside down for different size plugs, and put the bar through the holes to turn.



A T bar plug spanner.



A bike plug spanner. Not all bikes have extending plugs.

To replace a plug, it is advisable to use the hose pipe again. Cross threading the engine's head can lead to a world of problems. It's easy to avoid, though, so don't worry about it.



A plug thread cleaner. Carbon deposits working their way up the thread or sticking on the thread during plug changes need to be removed (if you're very  conscientious). These tools screw down into the thread to clean it.



If you don't  get it right, you can re-tap the stripped threads with a kit like this. It's not easy to use, so don't count on having it save your bacon. One prevention is worth several days of skinned knuckles and crying...



A Universal Stud Extractor.

Stick it on a socket wrench (ratchetts may not be advisable depending on how sturdy they are).
It turns what's left of the broken stud (like Exhaust Studs that hold the exhaust header pipes on the manifold or head) and if you're lucky they unscrew.
If they aren't long enough, you can weld a nut onto the remnant and unscrew it then.



Also available are socket- or roller-type stud extractors that are one size each, here 12 and 8mm.
One per direction, left and right hand threads.

[Welsh Al]

A Bearing Puller.

When bearings go wrong, you need to pull them out.



A Bearing/Seal Driver.

Does just what it says. Take one bearing


Place it in the appropriate aperture



And smack the bejeezuz out of it

[Maraud Mad Phil]

Here's one for you. It is becoming quite common for bolts etc, not only to be tightened to a specific torque, but also a further specific number of degrees rotation. To achieve this you need one of these:



Now as it happens I needed one of these the other day and a quick trip round to Halfords got me one for £19. The next day I was in Machine Mart and there on the shelf was the same tool for £9 

[Maraud Mad Phil]

Oh and here's another one for you:



Cheap electronic Vernier gage, £17.61 again from Machine Mart.

How deep is my tread?
What is the size of the pipe?
How long is that bolt?
Whats the height of me fuel float?

Absolutely endless uses 

[psyko]

Percussive maintenance can fix (almost) any problem

Now that is MY kinda tool! 

[Welsh Al]

An eccentric chain adjuster.




An eccentric bike adjuster.

[yam1000]

you had that tool all thoses years and dont know how to use it........!

hehehehehhe

 

[Holden_McGroin]

apart from a g-clamp, anyone got a good tool tip for pushing pistons back into calipers, or a tool to extract pistons from calipers?

[chris_r]

You can use one of these to force the piston back into the calliper, assuming it just needs to be retracted and hasn't come out completely.



You can get them from Machine Mart...

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader/path/automotive-hand-tools

[Biker 835]

To remove pistons from callipers you can use one of the lever pump type grease guns, if you remove the end that clips on to the grease nipple you will find that this thread is the same as where the pipe or the union screws into the calliper. You just then pump grease into the calliper to remove the piston/s afterwards a quick rinse in petrol will remove the grease prior to re-assembly.